Explorer
Rolex Explorer II: The Cave Explorer's GMT
The Rolex Explorer II was introduced in 1971 as a specialized tool for speleologists and polar explorers who needed to distinguish day from night in environments without sunlight. The original Ref. 1655 paired a fixed 24-hour bezel with an oversized orange arrow hand, the "Freccione," that completed one rotation per day. From the Ref. 16550 onward (1985), the 24-hour hand became independently adjustable, transforming the Explorer II into a genuine GMT watch. The white "Polar" dial, first offered on the 16550, established a colorway unique to this model across the entire Rolex Professional lineup. Today's Ref. 226570, powered by the Cal. 3285 (the same movement in the GMT-Master II), delivers 70 hours of power reserve in a 42mm case at $10,600 retail, making it the most affordable Professional Rolex with GMT capability. The Ref. 16570, produced from 1989 to 2011, remains widely recognized as the single best value in pre-owned sport Rolex collecting, starting under $8,000.
Last updated: 2026-04-02
Available at Ultimate Diamond
3 pieces in our collection right now.
Specifications
History
In 1971, Rolex introduced the Explorer II (Ref. 1655) as a specialized tool for cave explorers, geologists, and polar researchers: people who spent extended periods underground or in constant daylight at extreme latitudes where telling AM from PM was genuinely challenging. The solution was elegant: a fixed 24-hour bezel paired with an orange-tipped 24-hour hand that completed one rotation per day, allowing the wearer to distinguish between day and night at a glance. The 1655 was not a GMT watch in the modern sense, its 24-hour hand was slaved to the main hour hand and couldn't be set independently. It was, instead, the world's most purposeful AM/PM indicator.
Iconic References
Buying Guide
- • Travelers who want a genuine GMT watch without the GMT-Master II premium
- • Those who prefer a fixed bezel over a rotating one: cleaner aesthetic, no accidental rotation
- • Collectors who value individuality, the Explorer II is far less common than the Submariner or Datejust
- • Adventure professionals and outdoor enthusiasts who want a purpose-built tool watch
- • Value-conscious buyers seeking the most affordable Rolex Professional GMT
- • Anyone who appreciates the white Polar dial: truly unique in the Rolex lineup
Pricing & Market Data
Retail MSRP
Pre-Owned Market
Market Trajectory
Explorer II prices have stabilized after the 2022-2023 correction and show modest upward momentum. The model benefits from a growing narrative as 'the thinking person's Rolex GMT': knowledgeable collectors increasingly recognize its value proposition. The 16570 in particular continues to be cited as the best-value sport Rolex.
Investment Grade
A-tier for vintage (1655, 16550). A-tier for discontinued modern (16570 (best value). B+ tier for current production (226570)holds value, modest premium). The Explorer II is the most undervalued sport Rolex family overall.
Best Value Pick
The Ref. 16570 with white Polar dial is the single best value in sport Rolex collecting: a genuine GMT Professional Rolex with sapphire crystal, 40mm case, and unique Polar identity: starting at $7,000. Nothing else in the Rolex catalogue offers this combination at this price.
Comparisons
Cultural Significance
Steve McQueen (MYTH)
Ref. 1655 (attributed but unsubstantiated)
Despite the persistent nickname, there is NO photographic or documentary evidence that Steve McQueen ever wore a Ref. 1655 Explorer II. McQueen's documented watches include the Submariner 5512, Heuer Monaco, and Hanhart chronograph. The myth likely originated from a 1970s Italian magazine advertisement. The nickname stuck, and today it's too embedded in watch culture to dislodge, but serious collectors know it's apocryphal.
Ed Viesturs
Explorer II (various refs)
The first American to climb all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks wore an Explorer II on multiple expeditions. His use validated the watch's credentials as a genuine adventure tool, not just a desk diver.
Bear Grylls
Explorer II
The survival expert and adventurer has been associated with the Explorer II, fitting the watch's intended use case perfectly.
Frequently Asked Questions
Reference Guides
Deep dives on the specific Rolex Explorer II references, with current market value and buying notes.
Related Guides
Tudor Black Bay Collection
The collection that transformed Tudor from a dormant subsidiary into a standalone manufacture brand. Launched in 2012, t...
Read guide →Rolex Perpetual 1908
The Rolex Perpetual 1908 is the first proper dress watch Rolex has built in a long time, and the first thing collectors ...
Read guide →Rolex Rolex Air-King
The Rolex Air-King traces its lineage to 1945, when Hans Wilsdorf created a series of watches honoring Royal Air Force p...
Read guide →Rolex Rolex Bubbleback Guide: References, Specs, Value | Ultimate Watch
The Rolex Bubbleback is the watch that made the modern automatic wristwatch a commercial reality. Rolex patented its Per...
Read guide →Rolex Rolex Cellini
The Rolex Cellini collection (1968 to 2023) represented the Crown's dedicated dress watch line, standing apart from the ...
Read guide →Rolex Rolex Datejust
The Rolex Datejust is Rolex's best-selling model and arguably the most versatile luxury timepiece ever produced. Introdu...
Read guide →Own a Rolex?
We buy Rolex watches at competitive prices. Fast payment, no obligation quote.