Rolex Explorer II · Reference 16570
Rolex Explorer II 16570
Known as Explorer II (Polar / black dial), caliber 3185 and 3186 generation
The Rolex Explorer II reference 16570 ran from roughly 1989 to 2011, one of the longest production runs of any single Rolex sports reference. It replaced the earlier 16550 and carried the Explorer II line for about 22 years before the 42mm 216570 took over. Every 16570 is 40mm brushed stainless steel with a fixed, engraved 24-hour bezel and a red-tipped 24-hour hand that reads against that bezel. Two dials ran the entire time: white, which collectors call Polar, and black. The Polar is the one people picture when they hear Explorer II, because the black-outlined hands and markers on the white dial are unique in the Rolex catalog. Over 22 years the reference changed in ways that matter to buyers: lume went from tritium to Luminova to Super-LumiNova, hollow end links gave way to solid end links, and the movement stepped from the 3185 to the 3186. This is a watch that looks like one reference on paper and behaves like four or five different watches on the counter depending on the year.
Produced: Approximately 1989 to 2011
In stock at Ultimate Diamond
3 pieces on the counter right now.
Specifications
- Reference
- 16570
- Case material
- 904L stainless steel (Oyster case)
- Case diameter
- 40mm
- Bezel
- Fixed 24-hour engraved stainless steel bezel (non-rotating)
- Crystal
- Scratch-resistant sapphire (the 16570 was the first Explorer II with sapphire)
- Dial options
- White (Polar) or black
- Movement
- Caliber 3185 (1989 to roughly 2007), then Caliber 3186 (roughly 2007 to 2011)
- Movement type
- Automatic, self-winding, GMT (independent 24-hour hand with quickset)
- Frequency
- 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
- Power reserve
- Approximately 50 hours
- Hairspring 3186
- Blue Parachrom hairspring on the later caliber 3186 for improved resistance to magnetism, temperature, and shock
- Water resistance
- 100 meters (330 feet)
- Bracelet
- Oyster bracelet, reference 78790 with hollow end links early, then 78790A with solid end links (SEL) from around 2000, with a stamped clasp
- Lume evolution
- Tritium until approximately 1997 to 1998, Luminova into 1999 to 2000, then Super-LumiNova; Super-LumiNova and later examples read SWISS MADE at six o'clock
- Rehaut
- Plain inner bezel wall on earlier examples; laser-etched engraved rehaut arrives with the caliber 3186 examples from around 2007
- Crown
- Twinlock winding crown
- Case holes
- Drilled lug holes on earlier examples, non-drilled on the final caliber 3186 run
Market & Value
As of mid-2026 the 16570 sits in the roughly 7,000 to 10,000 dollar band for a clean, honest example in good condition, with WatchCharts showing a market estimate in the high 7,000s. Where a specific watch lands inside that band comes down to a short list of things collectors actually pay for. Dial color matters: Polar white examples generally command a premium over black, because the white dial is the signature look and there is simply more demand for it. Movement generation matters: the later caliber 3186 examples with the engraved rehaut and solid end links carry a premium over early 3185 watches, both for the upgraded movement and the more modern build. Lume matters at the top and bottom: creamy, evenly aged tritium dials on early examples pull collector money, while faded or patchy service dials pull the number down. Box and papers, an unpolished case with sharp lugs, and a matching-year full set can move an example thousands above a bare watch. This is a reference that has quietly climbed over the last several years as the market realized it is the last 40mm Explorer II, the cleanest cased one, and a genuine dual-time Rolex for well under GMT-Master II money.
What to Know Before You Buy
Buy the specific watch, not the reference number. First, confirm the movement: no engraving on the inner bezel wall almost always means caliber 3185; an engraved rehaut almost always means the caliber 3186 with the Parachrom hairspring. Second, read the dial for lume and originality. Tritium dials (no SWISS MADE with the Super-LumiNova style marking) should show consistent aging across markers and hands; mismatched color between the hands and the markers is a sign of a swapped or serviced part. Third, check the case. The 16570 is easy to over-polish, and 22 years of production means plenty of tired examples are out there. You want thick lugs, a visible bevel, and case sides that were not sanded flat. Early examples have drilled lug holes, which many collectors prefer. Fourth, check the bracelet: hollow end links rattle and are correct for early watches, solid end links are correct for later ones, and the stamped clasp stretch is normal but should not be sloppy. Finally, service history. The 3185 is a strong movement but a long-neglected one will need work; a recent Rolex or competent independent service, with the GMT quickset and 24-hour hand jumping cleanly at midnight, is what you want to feel on the wrist before you pay.
Rolex Rolex Explorer II Encyclopedia
Read the full guide →Buying or selling a 16570?
We buy and sell the Explorer II 16570 every week at Ultimate Watch, 19 West 47th Street, and we have been on this block since 1959. We know the difference between a fat-lug, unpolished Polar with matching tritium and a tired service-dial example dressed up in photos, and we pay accordingly on both. If you own a 16570 and want a real number, bring it in and we will look at it under a loupe with you standing there: dial, lume, case sharpness, movement generation, bracelet, box and papers. If you are buying, we can source clean 3185 and 3186 examples in both Polar and black and tell you honestly which years are worth the premium. Bring it to the counter on 47th Street, call us, or request an offer, and we will write a check on the watch, not on a chart.