(646) 220-7487
Ultimate.

Tudor Pelagos FXD Buyer's Guide: References, Specs, Prices | Ultimate Watch

The Tudor Pelagos FXD is the closest thing the industry has to a modern issued military dive watch that you can buy over the counter. FXD stands for fixed, and it describes the one detail that changes everything about how this watch wears: the strap bars are machined directly out of the titanium case, not screwed or pinned in. No removable spring bars means no failure point at the exact spot where a combat swimmer would lose a watch in the water. Tudor built the first FXD in 2021 alongside the Marine Nationale, the French Navy, reviving a supplier relationship that runs back to 1956. We stand behind the counter at 19 W 47th Street in New York, and when a Pelagos FXD crosses it we treat it as what it is: a purpose-built tool watch with a real service history behind the design, priced where a serious collector can actually own one. The line has grown from a single navy-blue no-date diver into a family that now covers a black diver, a GMT, and two carbon-composite chronographs, all built on the same fixed-lug titanium platform.

Specifications

CollectionTudor Pelagos FXD
Core References25717B (blue, 2021), M25717N-0001 (black, 2023), M25707B (Marine Nationale annual editions), M2542G247NU (FXD GMT Zulu Time, 2024), M25807KN / M25827KN (FXD Chrono, 2023 to 2024)
Case MaterialGrade 2 titanium, satin-brushed (diver and GMT); carbon composite with matte finish (Chrono models)
Case Diameter42mm (diver and GMT); 43mm (Chrono)
Case ThicknessApproximately 12.7mm to 12.8mm (diver), under 13mm
Lug To LugApproximately 52mm
Lug Width22mm, fixed integrated strap bars machined into the case
Water Resistance200m (660 ft)
CrystalSapphire
CrownTitanium screw-down crown with the Tudor shield in relief
Bezel42mm diver: bidirectional titanium bezel with ceramic insert, 120-click, retrograde 60-to-0 countdown graduation on the original blue Marine Nationale version; the 2023 black M25717N uses a unidirecti…
DialMatte, high-contrast, snowflake hands and applied square markers in luminescent ceramic composite, no date on the diver models
Movement DiverManufacture Calibre MT5602, self-winding, COSC-certified, 28,800 vph, 25 jewels, approximately 70-hour power reserve
Movement G M TManufacture Calibre MT5652-U, Master Chronometer certified by METAS and COSC, silicon hairspring, magnetic resistance to 15,000 gauss, approximately 65-hour power reserve, true local-jumping-hour GMT …
Movement ChronoManufacture Calibre MT5813, COSC-certified, silicon balance spring, column-wheel integrated chronograph with vertical clutch, approximately 70-hour power reserve
StrapOne-piece fabric strap woven in France by Julien Faure, plus a rubber strap on several references; no bracelet option, by design
Year Introduced2021

History

Iconic References

Buying Guide

Pricing & Market Data

Cultural Significance

Collector's Lore

The FXD's origin is genuinely military, not a marketing exercise, and that is the heart of its appeal. The retrograde bezel counting down from 60 to 0 confuses people who expect a normal dive scale, and that confusion is the point: it exists for underwater navigation by the Commando Hubert, timing legs of a compass route, not for tracking bottom time. Collectors prize the M.N. case-back engravings, and the dated annual editions have created a quiet game of collecting years. The Julien Faure fabric strap, woven in France on antique jacquard looms, has its own following; some owners buy the straps standalone. Because the case is titanium and the lugs are fixed, the FXD picked up a reputation as the Tudor people actually beat up rather than baby, which is why so many examples on the market show honest desk-diving hairlines that owners wear as a badge rather than a flaw. And it reframed the whole brand: the FXD is a watch Rolex does not offer, built to a spec Rolex would not chase, and it is the clearest single argument that Tudor is its own house and not a discount lane.

Related Guides

Own a Tudor?

We buy Tudor watches at competitive prices. Fast payment, no obligation quote.

CallSource a Watch