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Submariner

Rolex Submariner No-Date: The Purist's Dive Watch

The Rolex Submariner No-Date traces its distinct lineage to the Ref. 5513, introduced in 1962 as a non-chronometer alternative to the certified Ref. 5512. Without a date window or Cyclops lens, the dial achieves the perfect symmetry that echoes the original 1953 Submariner design more faithfully than its Date counterpart. The 5513 served as standard military issue for multiple NATO navies, including the British Royal Navy's modified "MilSub" variants (Ref. 5517), now valued at six figures. The current Ref. 124060, powered by the Cal. 3230 with 70-hour reserve, houses Rolex's latest movement technology in a 41mm Oystersteel case with Cerachrom ceramic bezel and 300-meter water resistance. At $9,100 retail, it is the most affordable Submariner and one of only two current-production Rolex sport watches without a date complication (the other being the Air-King). Among collectors, the No-Date is increasingly viewed as the more refined expression of the Submariner concept.

Last updated: 2026-04-02

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Specifications

Current Reference124060
Case Diameter41mm
Case Thickness12.2mm
Lug To Lug47.5mm
Lug Width21mm
Case MaterialOystersteel (904L stainless steel)
Crystal TypeSapphire with anti-reflective coating (no Cyclops)
Water Resistance300m / 1,000ft
MovementCalibre 3230
Movement TypeAutomatic (self-winding, in-house)
Frequency28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power ReserveApproximately 70 hours
Bezel TypeUnidirectional rotating, 60-minute graduated Cerachrom ceramic insert, platinum-coated numerals
BraceletOyster, three-piece solid links with Oysterlock safety clasp and Glidelock extension system
Dial ColorsBlack
LumeChromalight (long-lasting blue glow)
Date FunctionNo
CertificationSuperlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex after-casing, ±2 sec/day)
Year Introduced1962
Current Retail M S R P$9,100 USD (2026)
Made InSwitzerland

History

The No-Date Submariner lineage begins with the Ref. 5513, introduced in 1962 as a non-chronometer alternative to the certified Ref. 5512. Rolex created the 5513 to offer the Submariner's professional dive capability at a lower price point. Without the chronometer certification premium. The result was a stripped-down tool watch that became the default issue for military units worldwide, from the British Royal Navy to the South African Navy. What began as a cost-conscious alternative became, over six decades, the collector's preferred expression of the Submariner concept: no date window breaking the dial's symmetry, no Cyclops disrupting the crystal's clean profile, no compromise to the watch's essential purpose.

Iconic References

Buying Guide

  • Collectors who value dial symmetry and clean design over complications
  • The 'one watch' buyer: the no-date Sub is the consensus desert-island pick
  • Those who appreciate the vintage Submariner aesthetic in a modern package
  • Buyers who want a slightly thinner profile than the Date version (12.2mm vs 12.5mm)
  • Military watch enthusiasts and tool-watch purists
  • Investors seeking the strongest long-term appreciation within the Submariner family

Pricing & Market Data

Retail MSRP

124060$9,100 (2026)

Pre-Owned Market

14060$8,000-$11,000 pre-owned (2026)
124060 current$12,500-$15,000 pre-owned/unworn (2026)
114060 discontinued$10,500-$15,500 pre-owned (2026)
14060M$9,000-$13,000 pre-owned (2026)
5513 common$9,500-$13,000 (glossy dial, 2026)
5513 matte$14,000-$22,000 (matte dial, 2026)
5513 gilt$25,000-$50,000 (gilt dial, 2026)
5513 MilSub$100,000+ (military-issued, 2026)

Market Trajectory

No-date Submariner prices have found a floor after the 2022-2023 correction and are showing modest recovery in 2026. The 114060 in particular is gaining momentum as 'last 40mm' awareness grows. Vintage 5513 prices have been on a consistent upward trajectory for two decades with no sign of reversal.

Investment Grade

A-tier for current production (124060). S-tier for discontinued ceramic (114060). A-tier for transitional references (14060/14060M). S-tier for rare vintage (5513 gilt/MilSub). The No-Date Submariner, across all generations, is one of the most reliable stores of value in the watch market.

Best Value Pick

The Ref. 14060 (1990-2000) offers the best value proposition in 2026: a sapphire-crystal, 300m, modern-spec Submariner for under $10,000. It's the cheapest way into a 'real' Submariner, and as the gateway between the vintage 5513 and the modern ceramic era, it has meaningful collector significance at a price that still feels accessible.

Comparisons

Cultural Significance

Steve McQueen

Ref. 5512 (the chronometer-certified sibling of the 5513)

The 'King of Cool' wore a no-date-style Submariner 5512 daily, at the 12 Hours of Sebring, on the Le Mans set, and throughout his career. His association with the clean-dial Submariner without Cyclops established the no-date aesthetic as the choice of men who didn't need a date to know what day it was.

British Royal Navy Divers

Ref. 5513/5517 MilSub

The Royal Navy issued modified 5513s and 5517s as standard diving equipment from the late 1960s through the 1970s. These 'MilSubs' featured sword hands for underwater legibility and fixed spring bars for security. They gave the no-date Submariner its military credibility, this wasn't a fashion piece, it was operational equipment.

Robert Redford

Ref. 5512/5513

Frequently photographed wearing a no-date Submariner both on and off set. His understated style aligned perfectly with the no-date Sub's clean aesthetic: proving it worked as well with a suit as with a wet suit.

Keanu Reeves

Ref. 14060M

Known for his low-key, anti-flashy persona, Reeves' choice of the no-date 14060M over the Date version tracks perfectly. The no-date Sub is the introvert's luxury watch. It signals quality without demanding attention.

Frequently Asked Questions

Reference Guides

Deep dives on the specific Rolex Submariner No-Date references, with current market value and buying notes.

Related Guides

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