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Chopard Mille Miglia: Complete Buyer's Guide, References, Specs & Prices | Ultimate Watch

The Mille Miglia is the watch that turned Chopard from a jewelry house into a name car people take seriously. It started in 1988, when Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, co-president of Chopard and a genuine classic-car obsessive, signed the family firm on as official timekeeper and main sponsor of the Mille Miglia, the 1,000-mile open-road regularity race that runs from Brescia to Rome and back. Every year since, Chopard has built a chronograph tied to that race, and the line has become the most recognizable motoring watch that is not a Rolex Daytona or an Omega Speedmaster. We buy and sell these every week at our counter on 47th Street, and the ones that move fastest are the ones that look most like the era they celebrate: a legible chronograph on a rubber strap embossed with a 1960s Dunlop tire tread, a 1000 Miglia arrow on the dial, and a red-and-white racing color story. This is a race watch first and a dress watch second, and collectors buy it for exactly that reason. Case sizes across the modern line run 40.5mm on the Classic Chronograph to 44mm on the GTS Chrono and GT XL, so there is a Mille Miglia for a 6.5-inch wrist and one for an 8-inch wrist. If you own one and want to know what it is worth, or you want to buy one done right, this is the family to understand before you write a check.

Specifications

OverviewThe Mille Miglia is a chronograph family, not a single reference. The core modern pillars are the Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph (40.5mm), the Mille Miglia GTS Chrono (44mm), the Mille Miglia GTS Po…
Case SizesClassic Chronograph 40.5mm (12.88mm thick). GTS Chrono 44mm (13.79mm thick). GTS Power Control and GTS Automatic 43mm. GT XL Chrono 44mm.
MaterialsStainless steel and Chopard's proprietary Lucent Steel A223 on current pieces, a recycled steel alloy Chopard rates as roughly 50% harder than standard 316L with a brighter, whiter tone. Titanium and …
MovementsModern GTS Chrono and GTS Power Control use Chopard's in-house-finished caliber 01.08-C, an automatic running at 28,800 vph with roughly a 60-hour power reserve, 40 jewels, 251 parts (Power Control ad…
Water ResistanceClassic Chronograph 50m. GTS Chrono, GTS Power Control, and GT XL Chrono 100m.
Signature Features1000 Miglia dial marking and arrow logo, tachymeter scale, and the embossed Dunlop tire-tread rubber strap introduced in 1994. Perforated calfskin straps evoke vintage racing gloves on many references…

History

Iconic References

Buying Guide

Pricing & Market Data

Cultural Significance

Collector's Lore

The detail that sells the watch every time is the strap. When a customer first flips a Mille Miglia over and realizes the rubber is a real 1960s Dunlop tire tread, not a generic waffle pattern, the watch clicks for them. Chopard has kept that 1994 design language alive for three decades because it works. The other piece of lore worth knowing: Scheufele's own passion for classic cars is not marketing dressing. He genuinely drives in and around the world of the Mille Miglia, and Chopard's sponsorship of the actual race has been continuous since 1988, which is why the annual editions feel like race artifacts rather than seasonal SKUs. Collectors chase the national racing-color editions and the alpine-pass editions named for stretches of the real route. And a quiet tell of a serious Mille Miglia owner: they keep the tire-tread rubber for driving and swap to perforated calfskin, the glove-inspired strap, for everything else.

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