Is the Breguet Type XX a good investment?

The Type XX family offers compelling investment potential. The Ref. 3800ST at $6,500-$10,000 pre-owned is widely considered one of the best-value chronographs in luxury watchmaking, a genuine Breguet flyback for less than a Tudor Black Bay Chrono. Vintage military Type 20 pieces are blue-chip military watch collectibles. Any broader recognition of Breguet's undervaluation will lift the entire Type XX range.

Breguet Type XX vs IWC Pilot, which is better?

IWC has stronger brand recognition in the pilot watch space. Breguet has deeper horological heritage, genuine military supply history, and the flyback function that IWC's standard pilot chronograph lacks. The Type XX is the more prestigious choice for collectors; the IWC is the more recognized choice for the general public. Both are excellent, the decision comes down to whether you value history or recognition more.

How much does a Breguet Type XX cost?

Breguet Type XX prices range from $6,500 for a pre-owned Ref. 3800ST (the classic Aéronavale model) to $27,200 for the new fourth-generation Ref. 2067ST. The Type XXI Ref. 3817 trades at $12,000-$18,000 pre-owned. The Type XXII 10 Hz model ranges from $12,000-$22,000 in steel pre-owned. Vintage military-issue Type 20 chronographs command $12,000-$30,000+ depending on condition and provenance.

What is a flyback chronograph?

A flyback chronograph allows the wearer to reset and restart the timing function with a single press of a pusher, the chronograph hands fly back to zero and immediately begin timing again without needing to stop first. This function was essential for military pilots performing sequential timed maneuvers (like navigation legs). Standard chronographs require three presses (stop, reset, start). Flyback chronographs require one. The Breguet Type XX has featured flyback since its military origins in 1954.

Was the Breguet Type XX actually used by the military?

Yes. Between 1955 and 1965, Breguet delivered over 1,600 Type 20 chronographs to the French military: approximately 1,100 to the Air Force (Armée de l'Air) and 500 to the Naval Aviation (Aéronavale). These were genuine issue instruments used for dead-reckoning navigation. Military examples feature sterile (unbranded) dials and 'FG' (Fin de Garantie) service markings on the caseback.

What is the Breguet Type XXII 10 Hz?

The Type XXII Ref. 3880 is the first series-production mechanical flyback chronograph to run at 10 Hz (72,000 vibrations per hour): five times faster than a standard watch and twice the frequency of most high-end chronographs. This allows timing precision to 1/20th of a second. The silicon escapement makes this extreme frequency viable without premature wear. It's one of the most technologically impressive chronograph movements ever produced.

Where can I buy a Breguet Type XX in NYC?

Breguet has a boutique on Fifth Avenue for new models. For pre-owned Type XX, XXI, and XXII chronographs at competitive prices, visit Ultimate Diamond on 47th Street in NYC's Diamond District: we've been a trusted family-owned dealer since 1959 and carry Breguet across all collections, including the aviation lineup.

Breguet Type XX: The Military Aviation Chronograph

The Breguet Type XX originated as a military specification chronograph built for the French Aéronautique Navale in the 1950s. The Type XX designation refers to the French military's technical requirements for pilot chronographs: flyback function, rotating bezel, and legible dial at a glance. Breguet supplied the French armed forces under contract, making the Type XX one of the few haute horlogerie watches with genuine military provenance. The 2023 relaunch (Ref. 2067) introduced an entirely new in-house chronograph movement running at 5 Hz (36,000 vph), matching Zenith's El Primero frequency, with column-wheel flyback and a 60-hour power reserve. Available in stainless steel at $23,300-$27,200 retail. Previous-generation Type XX/XXI references (3800, 3810 series) trade pre-owned from $5,500-$10,000, representing genuine flyback chronographs from a 250-year-old manufacture at prices below an IWC Portugieser. The Type XX is the thinking collector's pilot chronograph: military heritage, haute horlogerie finishing, and secondary-market value that the market has not yet corrected upward.

Specifications

Current Reference2057ST (Type 20), 2067ST (Type XX), 3817ST (Type XXI)

Case Diameter38.3mm (2075 gold) / 39.5mm (3800ST) / 42mm (2057/2067/3817) / 44mm (Type XXII 3880)

Case MaterialStainless steel (most models), titanium (Type XXI 3810/3815), 18K rose gold (select models)

Crystal TypeSapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating

Water Resistance100m / 330ft

MovementCal. 728/7281 (2067/2057 (new gen, 5 Hz, flyback), Cal. 582 (3800ST)Lemania-based), Cal. 584Q/2 (3817 Type XXI), Cal. 589F (Type XXII: 10 Hz)

Movement TypeAutomatic flyback chronograph

Power Reserve48-60 hours depending on calibre

Bezel TypeBidirectional rotating bezel (pilot timing function)

BraceletSteel bracelet or leather/fabric strap with deployant buckle

Dial ColorsBlack (military), Slate grey, Blue, Brown

LumeLuminescent Arabic numerals and hands (SuperLuminova)

Year Introduced1954

Current Retail M S R P$23,300 - $27,200 (new gen steel, 2025); $15,000+ (Type XXII retail)

Made InSwitzerland

History

The connection between Breguet and aviation runs deeper than most collectors realize. Louis Charles Breguet (Abraham-Louis Breguet's great-great-grandson)was a pioneer of French aviation who founded Breguet Aviation in the early 20th century. So when the French Ministry of Defence issued its 'Type 20' specification in 1954 for military pilot chronographs, Breguet had both the horological expertise and the aeronautical pedigree to win the contract. The specification demanded: black dial, Arabic numerals, flyback chronograph, 30-minute counter, rotating bezel, minimum 35-hour power reserve, and a steel case. Breguet delivered 1,100 units to the French Air Force (Armée de l'Air) between 1955-1959 and approximately 500 to the Naval Aviation (Aéronavale) starting in 1960. These were genuine military instruments: sterile dials on military versions, 'FG' (Fin de Garantie) service markings on casebacks. The civilian Type XX followed with branded dials, and the line has evolved continuously for 70 years.

Iconic References

Buying Guide

• Aviation enthusiasts who want a pilot chronograph with genuine military heritage
• Collectors who value the flyback chronograph complication, one of the most practical chronograph functions
• Those seeking a Breguet that's rugged and sporty rather than dressy
• Military watch collectors looking for French Air Force/Naval Aviation provenance
• Value seekers: the 3800ST offers a Breguet flyback for under $10,000 pre-owned
• Tech-forward collectors interested in the Type XXII's 10 Hz innovation

Pricing & Market Data

Retail MSRP

value$23,300-$27,200 (new gen 2057/2067 steel); ~$15,000 (Type XXII steel retail); various for gold/platinum

Pre-Owned Market

value$6,500-$10,000 (3800ST pre-owned); $12,000-$18,000 (3817 Type XXI pre-owned); $12,000-$22,000 (Type XXII steel pre-owned); $20,000-$27,000 (new gen 2067 new/unworn)

Market Trajectory

The Type XX family is experiencing a renaissance driven by the 2023 new-generation launch. Pre-owned prices for the 3800ST have firmed from their lows. The military watch collecting category is growing rapidly, and Breguet's Type 20 heritage positions it perfectly.

Investment Grade

B-plus. The 3800ST pre-owned is one of the best-value chronographs in luxury watchmaking and will appreciate as Breguet awareness grows. Vintage military pieces are A-tier collectibles. The new generation 2067 has strong long-term potential.

Best Value Pick

Ref. 3800ST (Aéronavale): a genuine Breguet flyback chronograph with proven reliability for under $10,000 pre-owned. This might be the single best value in the entire Breguet catalog.

Comparisons

Cultural Significance

Frequently Asked Questions

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