Piaget Polo Buying Guide: Polo S, Polo Date and 1979 Gold Original | Ultimate Watch
The Piaget Polo is the watch that put a jewelry house into the luxury sports category and, decades later, gave that same house a steel watch people actually chase. Yves Piaget launched the original in 1979 as a solid 18k gold statement piece, all godron ridges running uninterrupted from bracelet to dial, no bezel to speak of, a quartz movement inside because the quartz crisis was reshaping the whole industry. That first Polo was a jet-set object: Andy Warhol wore one, so did Bjorn Borg and Ursula Andress. The name you hear most today is the Polo S, launched in 2016 as the first Piaget Polo ever made in stainless steel, and later folded into the Polo Date collection in 2021. We buy and sell both eras of this watch at our counter on 47th Street, and the two versions could not trade more differently. Vintage gold Polos move on gold weight and 1980s cool; the modern steel Polo S trades on the secondary market at a real discount to retail, which is exactly why it is worth understanding before you buy one new. This entry covers the references that matter, the calibers inside them, and what we actually write checks for.
Specifications
History
Iconic References
Buying Guide
Pricing & Market Data
Cultural Significance
Collector's Lore
The Polo's design DNA is the godron, the French term for the rounded parallel ridges that run across the whole watch. On the 1979 original there is effectively no bezel and no separate dial frame; the ridges flow uninterrupted, which is harder to execute cleanly in gold than it looks and is the first thing to inspect on a vintage example. Andy Warhol's association with the Polo is real collector shorthand; the house cultivated it, and a Warhol-era gold Polo carries a cultural weight beyond its gold value. A detail worth knowing: the first Polos were quartz not because Piaget could not build mechanical movements, the house was famous for ultra-thin mechanicals, but because the quartz crisis made quartz the prestige technology of the moment, and the 7P at 3.1mm and the 8P at 1.95mm were genuine records. That history is exactly why the 2024 Polo 79 revival made a point of going mechanical with the micro-rotor 1200P1, quietly correcting the one thing purists always held against the original. On the modern side, the collector conversation is almost entirely about value: the Polo S is the integrated-steel sports watch you can actually buy under retail, and for a certain buyer that is the whole appeal.
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