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World Time

The Patek Philippe World Time is the watch that lets you read all 24 time zones at a single glance, and Patek has owned that idea longer and better than anyone in the business. The complication traces to Geneva watchmaker Louis Cottier, who worked out the mechanism in 1931 and built the first Patek World Time wristwatches with the house in 1937. The layout has barely changed since: a rotating 24-hour ring, a fixed chapter of city names circling the dial, and a decorated center. Push the corrector, the hour hand, the 24-hour ring, and the city disc all jump together in one-hour steps, so setting a new home city is a single press. We are on 47th Street, and we buy and sell these every month. When someone brings in a 5110, a 5130, a 5230, or a 5231, we know exactly what we are looking at and exactly what it clears. This is a watch that carries real money on the vintage side and a genuine waitlist on the current side, which is a rare combination. Below is what the reference numbers, calibers, and prices actually are, verified before we wrote a word.

Specifications

Current FlagshipReference 5231G-001 / 5231J-001 (Rare Handcrafts cloisonné enamel) and 5230 series (guilloché center)
Caliber240 HU, self-winding, micro-rotor. The 240 base is one of Patek's oldest and thinnest automatic movements; the HU (Heures Universelles) module adds the world-time function.
Movement Dimensions27.5mm diameter, 3.88mm thick with the world-time module in place
Components239 parts, 33 jewels
Balance21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz)
Power Reserve38 to 48 hours depending on state of wind
RotorOff-center 22K gold mini-rotor, recessed so the movement stays thin
Case Size38.5mm diameter, roughly 10.2mm thick on the 5231; the earlier 5130 ran 39.5mm and the original 5110 ran 37mm x 44.2mm cushion-form
Water Resistance30 meters, this is a dress complication and should be treated as one
CrystalSapphire front, sapphire display back
Dial ConstructionRotating 24-hour ring with day/night shading, fixed printed city chapter ring, decorated center (hand-engraved guilloché on the 5230, Grand Feu cloisonné enamel on the 5231)
SealPatek Philippe Seal (in-house standard that replaced the Geneva Seal for Patek in 2009), accuracy held to -3/+2 seconds per day

History

Iconic References

Buying Guide

Pricing & Market Data

Comparisons

Cultural Significance

Collector's Lore

The double-crown 2523 is the one that keeps auction houses in business. The second crown at 9 o'clock, the piece that lets you spin the city disc without the pusher, is the detail that separates it from every later reference, and the cloisonné enamel maps signed by retailers like Milan's Gobbi are the specific examples that cross eight figures. There is a real story in the geography of the city rings too: because the printed chapter of cities reflects the time-zone map of its era, older World Times show place names and zone alignments that have since changed, which is exactly why Patek quietly redrew the ring for the 5230. Collectors read those city rings the way you read a date stamp. And the enamel is the sleeper: a Grand Feu cloisonné dial is fired multiple times by hand, each firing risks the whole piece, and a single dial can take an artisan a full working week, which is why the 5231 sits at six figures on the secondary market while a guilloché 5230 sits at five. We have handled enough of these across the counter to tell you the market rewards two things above all: original enamel with no restoration, and complete papers. Miss either and the number drops fast.

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