(646) 220-7487
Ultimate.

Portugieser Chronograph

The IWC Portugieser Chronograph is the watch that put IWC on the wrist of guys who wanted a dress chronograph without a bezel, without a tachymeter scale, and without the fuss. It arrived in 1998 as reference 3714, a two-register chronograph in a 40.9mm steel case with a flat railroad minute track, applied Arabic numerals, and slim leaf hands. That layout has barely changed in more than 25 years, which is exactly why collectors trust it. We buy these every week at the counter on 47th Street, and the shape you handle today is the same shape a guy bought in 1999. In 2020 IWC swapped the ETA-based movement for its own manufacture caliber, added a sapphire caseback, and grew the case to 41mm. Two generations, one silhouette, and a price ladder that runs from roughly $4,900 preowned for a clean 3714 to $8,900 retail for the current in-house 3716. If you want the cleanest entry into serious IWC, this is it.

Specifications

Current ReferenceIW371605 (3716 generation, steel, silver dial)
Case MaterialStainless steel (also 18k rose gold and 18k Armor Gold in the range)
Case Diameter41mm (current 3716 generation); 40.9mm (original 3714 generation)
Case Thickness13.1mm (3716); 12.3mm (3714)
Lug Width20mm
Water Resistance30 meters / 3 bar / 100 feet
CrystalConvex sapphire, anti-reflective coated
CasebackSapphire display back (3716 generation); solid screw-down steel back (3714 generation)
DialSilver-plated or blue, applied Arabic numerals, railroad minute track, small seconds at 6, 30-minute counter at 12, blued leaf hands
MovementIWC-manufacture caliber 69355 (3716); IWC caliber 79350, based on the ETA/Valjoux 7750 (3714)
Movement TypeAutomatic, bidirectional winding (69355 uses a pawl-winding system); 79350 uses the 7750 magic-lever rotor
Frequency28,800 vph (4 Hz), both calibers
Power Reserve46 hours (caliber 69355); 44 hours (caliber 79350)
Jewels33 jewels (caliber 69355)
ChronographColumn-wheel, two-register (caliber 69355); cam-actuated two-register (caliber 79350)
StrapAlligator leather strap with folding clasp (steel bracelet also offered on later 3716 references)
Current Retail$8,900 (IW371605, US retail)

History

Iconic References

Buying Guide

Pricing & Market Data

Cultural Significance

Collector's Lore

The Portugieser Chronograph's whole identity comes from a spec sheet that says the movement is a 7750 base while the watch on the wrist reads like haute horlogerie. For 22 years IWC ran the same worked ETA caliber under a dress-watch dial and let the case, the printed railroad track, and the blued leaf hands do the talking, and it outsold everything else the brand made. When IWC finally brought the manufacture caliber 69355 in 2020, some longtime owners argued the old 79350 was the more honest watch: bulletproof, cheap to service, and finished under a solid caseback where nobody was pretending. That debate is exactly why both generations hold value. Also worth knowing: the model was born Portuguese and became Portugieser in the 2020 relaunch, so paperwork and dials can carry either name depending on year, and neither spelling is a red flag. The original inspiration traces back to two Portuguese businessmen in the late 1930s who wanted marine-chronometer accuracy on the wrist, which is why the whole line runs oversized and clean-faced decades before that was in style.

Related Guides

Own a IWC Schaffhausen?

We buy IWC Schaffhausen watches at competitive prices. Fast payment, no obligation quote.

CallSource a Watch