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Girard-Perregaux Laureato: Buyer's Guide, References & Value | Ultimate Watch

The Laureato is the integrated-bracelet sports watch that collectors keep rediscovering, and every time they do, the same thing happens: they wonder why they slept on it. Girard-Perregaux launched it in 1975, the same window that produced the whole octagonal-bezel, steel-sports-watch category, and unlike most of its neighbors it was drawn, engineered, and built entirely in-house. The design language is unmistakable once you know it: an octagonal bezel with polished, chamfered flanks sitting on a circular flange, a tonneau case underneath, and a Clou de Paris (hobnail) dial that throws light in a way a plain sunburst never will. We buy and sell Laureatos every month at our counter on 47th Street, and the pattern is consistent. It wears smaller than the caliber suggests, it finishes at a level that reads well above its retail sticker, and it trades at a fraction of the money you would spend chasing the same silhouette from Geneva's two most famous names. If you want an in-house manufacture sports watch with real horological pedigree and no waitlist theater, this is the entry that rewards you for paying attention.

Specifications

Current CollectionLaureato (relaunched 2016 for the brand's 225th anniversary, in continuous production since)
Case Sizes34mm (quartz and automatic), 38mm, 42mm three-hand, 42mm chronograph
Case ShapeTonneau case with an octagonal bezel set on a circular flange, integrated H-link bracelet
MaterialsStainless steel, titanium, pink gold, two-tone steel and pink gold, and ceramic on select editions
Signature DialClou de Paris (hobnail) guilloche, offered in blue, silver, black, copper, sage green, and midnight blue depending on reference
Calibers{"GP03300":"In-house automatic, 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 27 jewels, 218 components, minimum 46-hour power reserve. Powers the 38mm three-hand and the 42mm chronograph.","GP01800":"In-house automatic, roughl…
Water Resistance100 meters on the 38mm three-hand; 100 meters on most current steel references; 30 meters on select dress-oriented and precious-metal variants
Case ThicknessAbout 10.02mm on the 38mm; about 10.10mm on the 41mm and 42mm three-hand references
CrystalSapphire front and display caseback
BraceletIntegrated three-row steel bracelet with folding clasp; 38mm uses a double-pushbutton butterfly clasp

History

Iconic References

Buying Guide

Pricing & Market Data

Cultural Significance

Collector's Lore

The Laureato is the watch enthusiasts point to when they want to prove they can see past a logo. For years it was the poster child for 'underrated,' the answer to the question of what you buy when the famous integrated-bracelet watches are unattainable or overpriced. Part of the lore is the design origin argument itself: the persistent Adolfo Natalini attribution that Girard-Perregaux has never endorsed, which turns into a small debate every time the watch comes up. Part of it is the 1975 launch date, which lets owners correctly point out the Laureato was not chasing anyone in the octagonal-bezel category; it arrived early and on its own steam, built entirely in-house by a manufacture with one of the most important quartz research programs in Swiss history. And part of it is the quiet satisfaction of the Clou de Paris dial, which reveals itself under light in a way photos never capture and rewards the owner more than the room. The people who buy Laureatos tend to be the ones who did the reading, and they wear them knowing exactly what is on their wrist.

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