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Cartier Santos-Dumont: History, References, Specs and Prices | Ultimate Watch

The Cartier Santos-Dumont is the closest thing the modern catalog has to the watch that started wristwatches for men. Louis Cartier built the original in 1904 for his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Brazilian aviator who could not read a pocket watch while flying his dirigibles over Paris with both hands on the controls. Cartier put the dial on his wrist instead, and the square case with exposed screws on the bezel became the template for a century of Cartier design. The current Santos-Dumont, relaunched in 2019, is the thin, flat, dress-leaning version of that lineage. It is not the sportier Santos de Cartier with the integrated bracelet and QuickSwitch links; the Santos-Dumont wears low, ships on a strap, and in its mechanical form runs a hand-wound movement so slim the whole watch measures around 7mm thick. We buy and sell both the Santos and the Santos-Dumont every week on 47th Street, and the Dumont is the one collectors reach for when they want the historical shape without the sports-watch heft. If you own one or want one, bring it into 19 W 47th St and we will talk numbers on the spot.

Specifications

CollectionSantos-Dumont (part of the Santos de Cartier family)
Current GenerationRelaunched 2019
Case ShapeSquare with rounded corners, exposed screws on the bezel and lugs
Sizes{"largeModel":"43.5mm x 31.4mm, 7.3mm thick","extraLargeModel":"46.6mm x 33.9mm, 7.5mm thick"}
Movement{"mechanical":"Caliber 430 MC, hand-wound, based on the Piaget 430P ultra-thin, roughly 38 to 40 hours of power reserve","quartz":"High-autonomy quartz with approximately 6 years of battery life on th…
MaterialsStainless steel, 18k yellow gold, 18k rose gold, steel-and-rose-gold two-tone, platinum on limited pieces
DialSilvered opaline with Roman numerals, blued steel sword hands, railroad minute track, secret Cartier signature at the 'X' of the VII
CrownSeven-sided crown set with a faceted synthetic spinel (blue) or ruby cabochon on precious-metal versions
CrystalSapphire
Water Resistance30 meters (3 bar), a dress-watch rating, not for swimming or diving
StrapAlligator or calfskin leather with an ardillon or folding buckle, no integrated bracelet on the Dumont

History

Iconic References

Buying Guide

Pricing & Market Data

Comparisons

Cultural Significance

Collector's Lore

The details collectors trade stories about: the secret signature hidden in the 'X' of the VII on the dial, a Cartier authentication cue that goes back decades. The faceted stone in the seven-sided crown, blue synthetic spinel on steel and ruby on some precious-metal pieces. The fact that the movement in the mechanical Santos-Dumont, the caliber 430 MC, is built on the Piaget 430P ultra-thin, one of the reasons the whole watch stays around 7mm. And the origin itself: this is the descendant of the piece Louis Cartier made in 1904 so a man could fly a dirigible and still tell the time, the watch usually credited with making the wristwatch acceptable for men. Collectors who buy the Santos-Dumont are buying that lineage as much as the watch. On 47th Street it is the Cartier we point historically minded buyers toward when they want the story, not the sports bracelet.

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