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Breguet Marine: The Naval Heritage Sport Watch

The Breguet Marine traces its lineage to 1815, when Abraham-Louis Breguet was appointed Horloger de la Marine Royale by Louis XVIII, responsible for all chronometers aboard French naval vessels. The modern Marine collection, relaunched in 2018 with the 5500 series, translates that maritime heritage into a luxury sport watch with 100m water resistance, wave-pattern guilloché dials, and in-house movements with silicon escapements. Available in titanium, 18K rose gold, and platinum. The titanium Ref. 5517 at approximately $16,500 retail is the collection's sweet spot, offering lightweight wearability, 40mm case diameter, and genuine Breguet dial craft at a price below most Audemars Piguet Royal Oak references. Pre-owned Marine models from the previous generation (5817, 3800 series) trade from $5,000-$12,000, representing extraordinary value for Breguet in-house movements with exhibition casebacks. The Marine Chronograph adds flyback functionality. For collectors seeking a sport watch with 250 years of heritage behind it, the Marine has no equal at its price point.

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3 references we can source through our network.

Specifications

Current Reference5517 (time-only), 5527 (chronograph), 5547 (alarme musicale), 5887 (tourbillon équation marchante)
Case Diameter40mm (5517/5547) / 42.3mm (5527) / 43.9mm (5887)
Case MaterialTitanium, 18K white gold, 18K rose gold, platinum
Crystal TypeSapphire crystal with sapphire caseback
Water Resistance100m / 330ft (5517, 5887); 50m (5547); 30m (5529)
MovementCal. 777A (5517), Cal. 582QA (5527), Cal. 519F/1 (5547): all in-house automatic with silicon components
Movement TypeAutomatic (all current references)
Power Reserve55 hours (5517), 48 hours (5527), 45 hours (5547)
Bezel TypeFixed coin-edge fluted bezel in matching case metal
BraceletIntegrated rubber strap or metal bracelet (titanium or gold depending on model)
Dial ColorsBlue (sunburst or guilloché), Slate grey, White/silver, Black
LumeLuminescent fill on Breguet hands and hour markers
Year Introduced1990
Current Retail M S R P$16,500 (5517 titanium on rubber) to $307,500+ (5887 tourbillon): 2025
Made InSwitzerland (Vallée de Joux)

History

Abraham-Louis Breguet's connection to the sea was formalized in 1815 when King Louis XVIII of France bestowed upon him the title 'Horloger de la Marine Royale': Watchmaker to the Royal Navy. Breguet produced marine chronometers of extraordinary precision for French naval expeditions, instruments that helped chart unknown waters and ensured safe navigation. The modern Marine wristwatch collection, introduced in 1990, began as a modest line of sporty dress watches. It underwent a significant aesthetic refresh in 2005 under Nicolas G. Hayek's leadership, adding chronograph complications and bolder proportions. The transformative moment came in 2018 when Breguet completely redesigned the Marine with integrated lugs, wave-motif guilloché dials, titanium options, and a distinctly modern sport-luxury identity: arguably the most significant Breguet collection relaunch in decades.

Iconic References

Buying Guide

  • The collector who wants a luxury sport watch from the brand that invented watchmaking. Not just a fashion house
  • Those seeking titanium lightweight comfort with haute horlogerie finishing
  • Maritime/nautical enthusiasts who appreciate the historical 'Horloger de la Marine' connection
  • Value hunters: the Marine in titanium offers extraordinary craftsmanship-per-dollar
  • Collectors building a Breguet collection who want something sportier than the Classique

Pricing & Market Data

Retail MSRP

value$16,500 (5517 Ti on rubber); $29,400 (5527 Ti chrono); $28,600 (5547 Ti alarm); up to $307,500 (5887 tourbillon): 2025

Pre-Owned Market

value$14,000-$18,000 (5517 Ti pre-owned); $22,000-$35,000 (5527 pre-owned); $7,000-$14,000 (neo-vintage 3400/5817 pre-owned)

Market Trajectory

The Marine is experiencing a quiet renaissance. Titanium models are increasingly recognized as best-value luxury sport watches. Neo-vintage references are appreciating as Breguet awareness grows. The 250th anniversary has amplified attention across all collections.

Investment Grade

B-plus. The Marine titanium models offer excellent craftsmanship-per-dollar and are poised for appreciation as Breguet's undervaluation is corrected. Neo-vintage references (5817ST in particular) have strong upside potential.

Best Value Pick

Ref. 5517 in titanium on rubber strap, a genuine Breguet with hand-guilloché dial, silicon-equipped in-house movement, and 100m WR for roughly $14,000-$16,500 pre-owned. Possibly the best-value haute horlogerie sport watch on the market.

Comparisons

Cultural Significance

Frequently Asked Questions

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