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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar: The Crown Jewel Complication

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, first produced as Reference 5554 in 1984, was the world's thinnest automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch at just 7.5mm. It demonstrated that grand complications could coexist with Gerald Genta's sports watch case architecture. The 39mm Ref. 25654 (1987-1996) followed with approximately 315 steel examples produced, intentionally omitting the leap year indicator to preserve the ultra-thin profile. The 41mm Ref. 26574ST (2015-2021, Caliber 5134) became the definitive modern iteration, while the blue ceramic 26579CS (2019) emerged as one of the most demanded AP references, trading at $350,000 to $500,000 against a retail of approximately $110,000. In 2025, AP introduced the Ref. 26674ST with an entirely new Calibre 7138 featuring a crown-based calendar adjustment system that eliminates the need for correction pushers. Only 49 pieces of the original Ref. 5554 were produced in steel.

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3 pieces in our collection right now.

Specifications

CollectionRoyal Oak Perpetual Calendar
BrandAudemars Piguet
Current Reference26674ST (2025 generation)
Previous Reference26574ST (2015-2021)
Vintage Reference25654 (1987-1996)
First Reference5554/25554 (1984-1987)
Case Diameter41mm (current and 26574); 39mm (25654 and earlier)
Case Thickness9.5mm (26574ST); 8.3mm (25654)
Case MaterialsStainless steel, 18K rose gold, 18K yellow gold, 18K white gold, platinum, blue ceramic
Movements{"current":"Calibre 7138: self-winding, 52-hour power reserve, all-in-one crown adjustment system (26674ST)","previous":"Calibre 5134: self-winding, 40-hour power reserve, 38 jewels, 19,800 vph (26574…
ComplicationsHours, minutes, day, date, month, astronomical moon phase, leap year indicator (post-25820)
Water Resistance20 meters
CrystalSapphire with anti-reflective coating
BraceletIntegrated Royal Oak steel or precious metal bracelet with AP fold-over clasp

History

The concept of placing a perpetual calendar inside the Royal Oak case was revived in 1981 by AP's master watchmakers, who began development in 1983. The result (reference 5554, launched in 1984)was a revelation: the world's thinnest automatic perpetual calendar at just 7.5mm thick. It proved that Gerald Genta's 1972 sports watch design could house the most rarefied complications in watchmaking, and it helped rescue AP's fortunes during the post-quartz-crisis era.

Iconic References

Buying Guide

  • Serious collectors seeking AP's most important complication
  • Buyers who want a do-everything sports watch with grand complication credentials
  • Long-term investment buyers (especially vintage 25654 and discontinued 26574)
  • Collectors who appreciate ultra-thin movement engineering

Pricing & Market Data

Retail MSRP

valueCHF 109,300 / ~$120,000 USD (26674ST, 2025 generation steel)

Pre-Owned Market

value$120,000-$165,000 (26574ST discontinued steel, blue dial); $350,000-$500,000+ (26579CS blue ceramic)

Market Trajectory

The 26574ST bottomed in 2020 and has appreciated ~100%+ since. The blue ceramic 26579CS trades at 3-5x retail. Vintage 25654ST has risen steadily as the vintage AP market matures.

Investment Grade

A, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is a blue-chip complication watch with strong historical provenance and celebrity demand

Best Value Pick

26574ST.OO.1220ST.01 (silver dial): same watch as the blue for $15,000-$20,000 less

Comparisons

Cultural Significance

Collector's Lore

Only 49 pieces of the original ref. 5554 were made in stainless steel: finding one is a life achievement for vintage AP collectors.

The 25654 intentionally omitted the leap year indicator to maintain the ultra-thin profile: AP chose elegance over completeness.

Bill Murray wore his own personal AP Perpetual Calendar in 'Scrooged'. No product placement, just a collector being himself.

John Mayer's AP collaboration featured a unique 'crystal sky' blue dial never before produced. It sold out instantly.

The blue ceramic 26579CS reportedly has a secondary-market premium exceeding 300%, one of the highest markups in modern watchmaking.

Travis Scott's 'Cactus Jack' QP introduced brown ceramic, a material first for Audemars Piguet.

During the 2020 market dip, 26574ST steel QPs briefly traded near $55,000: those who bought then have seen 100%+ returns.

Frequently Asked Questions

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